As a teen with persistent acne, my esthetician constantly reminded me to apply sunscreen. But, like most teens, I definitely didn’t use sunscreen as often as I should have.
And now as an adult, I’m seeing the signs of sun damage: fine lines, uneven pigmentation, and a loss of elasticity.
Sun damage can take years to appear on the skin. Just one severe sunburn in your teens or childhood can double your chance of getting melanoma later in life. UV exposure also breaks down collagen and the elasticity in your skin, which can cause further signs of premature aging.
If you’re like me and starting to see the signs of sun damage appear on your face, you may be wondering exactly what you can do about it. Here are some of the best ways to help your skin recover from too much fun-in-the-sun.
Power-Up Your Skincare Routine
When you begin to see the signs of sun damage, it’s time to start incorporating some hard-hitting ingredients into your skincare routine. Look for skincare that features the following powerhouse ingredients to help turn back the hands of time.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that protects against UV-induced damage caused by free radicals. Your skin also needs it for producing collagen, the protein that gives your skin elasticity and strength.
Studies suggest that vitamin C may help prevent and treat ultraviolet (UV)-induced photodamage, aka sun damage.
Vitamin C is naturally found in high levels in both your dermis and epidermis, but aging and sun exposure can lower your skin’s natural levels of Vitamin C. To get the most antioxidant benefits of Vitamin C, apply it in the morning after cleansing.
Retinoids
A vitamin A derivative, retinoids function by rapidly increasing cell turnover. This anti-aging ingredient is used to reduce fine lines (it works by increasing the production of collagen), improve acne, and fade age spots.
The benefits of retinoids can take time to appear – it can take three to six months of regular use before reductions in wrinkles are noticeable. And retinoids must be used continually if you want to maintain results.
Prescription-strength retinoids can cause dryness and skin irritation, and doctors often recommend beginning with a small amount no more than once every other day and gradually working your way up to daily applications.
But many over-the-counter products now include retinoids in lesser amounts, which makes them less irritating than the prescription version while still improving sun-damaged and photo-aged skin.
For best results, use retinoid-containing skincare products at night, when your skin is hard at work repairing itself while you sleep. And be sure to wear a physical sunscreen during the day to prevent further damage; retinoids can make your skin more sensitive to sunlight and UV-damage.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are used to exfoliate the skin and reveal new skin underneath. The use of AHAs can help promote collagen production, improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, brighten the skin, and correct discolorations such as age and sunspots.
The most widely used and well-researched AHAs are glycolic acid and lactic acid.
Just like retinoids, AHAs could be irritating to some skin. It’s best to start off slowly when introducing active ingredients like retinoids and AHAs and work your way up to daily use.
Combining these active ingredients could also lead to skin irritation. Ideally, alternate the nights that you apply AHAs and retinol to prevent irritation or damage. You may be able to combine and layer these two powerful ingredients, or you may find that you need to use AHAs in the morning and retinoids at night.
Whichever way you use retinoids and AHAs—together, separately, or on alternating days—it’s very important to consistently use SPF in the day. These active ingredients can make your skin more sensitive to UV light.
If your skin appears shiny, feels tight, dry or irritated, immediately stop using your actives and start moisturizing.
In-Office Procedures
If your skin needs more aggressive treatment for sun damage, a dermatologist may recommend an in-office treatment.
Professional, in-office treatments such as chemical peels, micro-needling, microdermabrasion, and laser treatments should only be administered by a board-certified dermatologist. These treatments often come with higher price tags and some recovery time but can lead to dramatic results.
Prevent and Protect with Sunscreen
Sunscreen is the first line of defense in preventing and reversing sun damage. A 2016 study demonstrated that using sunscreen consistently over a period of one year visibly reversed signs of aging like pigmentation, wrinkles, and texture.
Staying out of the sun during peak hours (10 a.m. to 2:00 p.m.) is another crucial aspect of preventing sun damage. Lastly, wearing long sleeves and a hat can help protect the rest of your body.
Choose a mineral sunscreen that offers physical organic compounds like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide to physically block ultraviolet rays.